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square³ angle: the transformation

Showing as part of Fashion Scout, a hothouse for new talent based at Freemasons’ Hall, Covent Garden, Hellen van Rees brings us her new autumn/winter 2013/14 collection under the enigmatic title ‘square³ angle: the transformation’.

By Katie Dominy /asdf 14-02-2013

Hellen van Rees shows off her latest collection from Friday 15 February at London Fashion Week.

Currently based in eastern Netherlands near the German border, in a small town called Hengelo, van Rees is no stranger to London, having completed her Fashion MA there in 2012 at Central Saint Martins UAL. Having decided to return to the Netherlands after her degree to start her own fashion label, van Rees has honed in on the use of recycled fabrics to create a 21st century version of the Chanel tweed suit.

For the collection, all the pieces are handmade by van Rees using factory remnants and recycled yarns. We asked van Rees how this came about:  “I'd been looking for different ways to make my work as sustainable as possible. With the tweed weaving I needed as many different types of yarn as I could get. Factory remnants are very suitable for this; I get them from a small knitting factory in the Netherlands.”

Van Rees has also had a video created for square³ angle: the transformation that showcases the colorful blocks of woven yarns and how they appear transformed into ‘real tweeds.’ This season, the tweeds are combined with a rubber-coated fabric in glossy black or white, allowing a base for the colourful open-weave designs to layer over, as seen in a black fitted zip-front jacket with overlaid tweed body, plus matching tweed heels.

The designer sees her homage to the Chanel suit as moving it into a 3-dimensional and futuristic vein; a concept that indeed comes out in the fantastic rectangular boxes that sprout from the models’ heads in the collection’s photoshoot. And where does this inspiration come from we asked? “Mostly from the cube installations by artist Rachel Whiteread. Empty spaces filled with transparent cube shaped casts and, most famously, the installation in Tate Modern’s Turbine hall with the piles of cubes.”

The previous collection was also shown on the catwalk at Fashion Scout in September 2012, as part of the prestigious Ones to Watch show and a piece from the earlier autumn/winter 2012/13 collection Square one: The Miracle of the Space Age was worn by Lady Gaga herself.

Although concepts of cubes and Lady Gaga sounds far from commercial, van Rees has a most sophisticated e-store, where this new autumn/winter 13/14 collection can be pre-ordered and all the items are methodically arranged online, from skirts and shoes to bracelets and iPad sleeves. 


square³ angle: the transformation will be on show at Freemasons’ Hall, Covent Garden from February 15 to 19 and also in Paris, with Fashion Scout from February 28 to March 05 at Rue du Roi de Sicile, Marais, Paris


Image credits: Photos by Kim Buckard

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