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ArtEZ Fashion 2013

Last week at Industriepark Kleefse Waard Arnhem, ArtEZ Institute of Arts showcased its 2013 talents in a catwalk show featuring both Master and Bachelor graduates. 

By Katie Dominy /asdf 13-06-2013

The catwalk included work by six Master graduates. Swiss-born Stéphanie Baechler showcased a collection entitled Lodonite, named after a mineral whose appearance Baechler has mimicked with her layers of neutral colours, but fabrics are stiff and strikingly 3D – as if a Cubist painter had taken control.  As each of the seven models entered the catwalk, they took their place on angular marble plinths. Hilda Wijnhoud took inspiration from masculine pyjama dressing for brilliant green and ecru stripes, while Barbara Langendijk showed sophisticated pieces with an Eastern draped aesthetic. asked Mascha van Zijverden, Course Director ArtEZ Fashion Masters about this year's graduates. “There is a great emphasis on craftsmanship, the quality of the handmade materials, such as wool, knit, felt and handicrafts. In all the collections a strong emphasis is put on on new silhouettes and shapes and compared to previous years there is less focus on street wear and sportswear. Students are questioning the modern fashion traditions and this year's designers focus strongly on individual garments; garments which could last longer than just one season.”

How do you feel the economic climate will affect the careers of this year's graduates? 

“Economically we are living in trying times, the positive side is that students are now forced to reflect on the fashion scene. In the years ahead we are going to see exciting new developments in fashion, not only necessarily in terms of design, but in terms of vision, production and new ways of presentation. This new generation of designers are very much aware of the fact they can play an important role in this interesting process.”

The Bachelor graduates included the work of Anneleen Bertels, whose womenswear collection in soft layered tones and fabrics is entitled 'who is the dream machine’ and looks at the interaction between human beings and our surroundings. Bertels explains: 'Silhouettes are cut in two pieces and put together again. Everything is turning around or moving in one direction. As if the person is twisted by their own personality and personal space. Sometimes air finds its way in to the garments, as if it wants to sneak into your body.” 

Christina Engsig gave us a strong, sensual feminine collection with, as  Engsig notes, “fragile, creased edges”.  Accents of gold set within rose, aqua and natural tones contrasted textures and silhouettes. Hans Hutting's menswear collection in pastels was “based on good taste and bad taste. A little rave, cowboys and my grandma's nightgown, groomed poodles and naughty texts that are written on a beer coaster and a glimpse into the gay world.”

Liselore Frowijn's work is an eye-dazzling array of prints and textures, often hand-painted and embroidered, while Cherish Brouwer sent out an elegant well-groomed collection that chimes with her desire for perfection in detail, innovation, versatility and functionality.We spoke with Matthijs Boelee Head of Fashion Design Bachelors at ArtEZ about the graduates' work. “Key trends within this year’s graduation class of ArtEZ Fashion Design BA are without doubt eclecticism, expressionism and an abundance in colour, textiles and prints. 

And after they leave?
“The economic and financial climate at this moment prevents young designers from launching their own private labels. Instead they option for positions as junior designers within established companies or doing extended post-academic internships within high-end labels.”

The ArtEZ Fashion shows were one of the first events on the Mode Biënnale Arnhem calender. This edition is themed Fetishism in Fashion and runs June 9 to July 21, 2013.

Main image:  Stéphanie Baechler
Other images: 1 -  Hilda Wijnhoud 2  -  Anneleen Bertels 3  - Christina Engsig 4 and 5 -  Hans Hutting 6 -  Liselore Frowijn 7 -  Cherish Brouwer 8 -  Barbara Langendijk

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