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Moroccan vibes and Anti-fashion

The two opening acts of the sixteenth edition of Amsterdam Fashion Week could hardly be more different. First off was classic menswear designer Sjaak Hullekes, followed by the enfant terrible of Dutch fashion: Bas Kosters.

By Cassandra Pizzey / 27-01-2012

Showing not one but two collections - new Sensitives underwear line and A/W 2012 - Sjaak Hullekes had the honor of opening Amsterdam Fashion Week this Winter.

Dancers were first on the catwalk, wearing nothing but underwear to present Hullekes’ intimates line named Sensitives. Catering to fashion-conscious men, Hullekes and companion Sebastiaan Kramer created a line of briefs and boxers from high-quality materials.

Hullekes’ characteristic classic tailoring was given a boost through the use of warm, earth colours and indigo. A Moroccan vibe paired with 1970s glam dominated as models came down the runway wearing fedoras, large bead necklaces and beautifully tailored trousers and shirts. Colour-pairings of aubergine and indigo, tangerine and rich browns gave the collection a luxury vibe.

On the other spectrum of fashion design was anti-fashion hero Bas Kosters, who turned his show into an outright party. Beginning with the designer himself - head to toe in his own creations - putting on a performance, models came down the runway wearing fuzzy bear trousers, telephone-print dresses and colourful prints.

The A/W 2012 collection named 1,2,Tree is based on a city life versus nature theme in which our dependance on mobile technology is set against the peace and quiet of nature. In typical Kosters’ style the pieces had a punk aesthetic, featured bright colours and an overdose of prints. Maybe this collection was not everyone’s cup of tea, it was certainly one of the most enjoyable fashion shows to date.

 Photography: Team Peter Stigter

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