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AIFW July 08: Iris van Herpen

Iris van Herpen showed her spring/summer 09 collection, 'Refinery Smoke'.

By Editor / 30-07-2008

Iris van Herpen showed her spring/summer 09 collection, 'Refinery Smoke'.

Iris van Herpen (Wamel, 1984), is known for her avantgarde couture, often with a futuristic undertone. She often experiments with seemingly unusable materials and forms. According to the designer, the idea behind 'Refinery Smoke' comes from a refinery at night. At first glance a refinery offers a beautiful complexity (regarding form), in combination with a fascinating organic cloudy emission. The organic, flowing, skyward smoke looks soft and dynamic, but is at the same time ugly, scary, dark, dirty and harmful.

It is this fascinating double feeling that van Herpen is trying to capture in this collection. 'The smoke looks like it is alive...will there be a time when clothing is unnecessary and we're able to 'wear' something as intangible as smoke? I believe in an unlimited, barrier-breaking future when it comes to fashion and therefore strive to find the borders of the seemingly impossible'.

With minimal use of 'mainstream' materials, van Herpen says she is inspired by new forms. The collection included cloud dresses made from fine iron gauze, as well as skirts made of endless threads. The main colours were shades of grey, as well as rust brown and silver white. The collection was completed by spun yarn shoes.

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