Highlights at the Modefabriek
The thirtieth edition of Holland's largest fashion trade fair, the Modefabriek, gave us some exciting new designs.
The Modefabriek mainly focusses on high-end, high street labels such as Desigual, Judith Osbourne and 10-feet.
Hundreds of brands present their collections for folowing season in the form of stands, but some labels choose to show their latest collections on the catwalk provided by the Modefabriek.
Amongst the brands some alternative projects stood out, such as the 3rd Bachelor, Young Talent Platform where a selection of work from the fashion courses at ArtEZ Arnhem, Gerrit Rietveld Academy and Royal Academy the Hague was on show. Jeans brand Nudie took over the transitional area between the two main halls where it presented new jeans models, showed a film about the history of denim and hosted performances by Dutch pop/rock bands.
The most exciting part of the Modefabriek though, is the next/cutting edge fashion show where international, promising young designers are given a chance to present their work. Design.nl talked with three of them:
The London-based, Norwegian design Harald Lunde Helgesen runs the label HLH which combines technical materials with utilitarian workwear. Mainly focussing on denim and new ways of processing said material, Helgesen's stand-out collection Denim MXI features a jumper knitted from denim yarn, and laser-cut jeans. "I like to take a material and push it further," says Helgesen. "At the moment I use new denim, but it would be great to team up with a famous jeans brand and work with second-hand, recycled denim."
Another menswear designer who showed his collection at the cutting edge show was Michael Kampe. Combining haute-couture tailoring with streetwear, Kampe's collection was maybe the most conceptual and striking of the bunch. He explains: "I take my inspiration from the way products are presented and displayed; looking at different angles, mixing it up and tearing it apart." Case in point is the oversized, three-dimensional jacket with various views of a digitally-printed landscape. "I love combining art with classic menswear such as suits and trench coats, then styling it all with a pair of jeans."
The pieces are made from materials such as jersey, wool and linen but re-used materials hold no secrets for Kampe: "One of my favourite pieces is a jacket made from old handbags."
Australian design-duo Neo Dia (Becky Chua and Gavin Lowes) presented a wearable, yet avant-garde collection with pieces that looked as though they were made from paper. The clothing takes its cue from mathematical 'art', looking at rhythmic algorithms and graphs. Materials such as silk organza are folded into three-dimensional shapes which form and give structure to the garments. "We mainly use foldable, structural materials or materials we can laser cut such as leather," says Lowes. "We spend a lot of time researching the materials; folding and developing new techniques to integrate the material in our work," adds Chua.
Neo Dia's collection features clean lines and new shapes, not forgetting an innovative use of high-quality materials.
Other designers showing at the Next/Cutting Edge show were: Haaning & Thoon, Versuchskind, NatalieBColeman, James Hillman, Karssenberg/Greidanus and Barbara I Gongini.
Click on the images to enlarge
Main image: Young Talent Platform
Other images top to bottom: 1. Karssenberg/Greidanus 2. Haaning & Thoon 3. HLH 4. Kampe 5. Neo Dia Photo: Gabriëlle Koster
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