By Cassandra Pizzey / 28-06-2012

Held on the third floor of the Benthem Crouwel building which houses the academy, students presented their vision on fashion design. Highlight of the show were the three graduate collections by fourth year students.

Similar to what we saw at KABK, the entire fashion department of the Rietveld academie presented itself during a show which was opened by a succession of fresh and edgy collection by first , second and third year fashion students. Following that, two students of the Audio Visual and Textiles department showed their graduate projects. 



In comparison to some of the other academies which presented their fashion collections this year, the Rietveld academie has a relatively small fashion department and focusses very much on the conceptual development of its students. The collections are not so much wearable fashion pieces as they are wearable works of art. 



The expressive collection by Torfi Fannar Gunnarsson and Elisabeth Leerssen’s sweater collection were both entirely made up of knitwear. Leerssen opted for a very wearable collection combining ‘stained’ knit sweaters with sheer-overlay shorts and wooden accessories while Gunnarsson’s bright collection showed us digital prints, interesting pattern combinations and a new sense of proportions. 

Playing with various dyeing techniques, three-dimensional forms and new silhouettes, the three fashion graduate collections were a lust for the eye. 

Poul Brouwer showed a graphic menswear collection in which a checked motif played a pivotal role. Dressing his models in interesting new silhouettes which included skirts and stiff padded jackets, the patterns seemed almost accidentally spilled onto the white garments. The combination of precise pattern and tie-dye colour blasts made for a fresh new aesthetic.

Morta Griskeviciute’s collection was eclectic and combined a series of surprising materials and innovative techniques. We saw heavy brocade materials, dip-dyed, with gold thread and combined with a more delicate poplin Tee. Textile combinations included PVC-like materials and a jacket that seemed to reveal paper cut outs. Each look made the viewer re-evaluate their thoughts on the classic silhouette.

Jolka Wiens presented a sculptural collection in which laser-cut slits gave shape to boxy silhouettes. The monochrome colour palette and overall styling of Wiens‘ collection gave it a somewhat etherial and 1920s vibe, further enhanced by dropped waists, wide-legged trousers and ankle-long skirts. 


Main image: Elisabeth Leerssen
Other images: 1.-2. Torfi Fannar Gunnarsson 3.-4. Poul Brouwer 5. Morta Griskeviciute 6.-7. Jolka Wiens

Photography Peter Stigter

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