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Dutch Eco Design Show

At last week’s Berlin Fashion Week, the Dutch Eco Design catwalk show highlighted the autumn/winter 2014/15 collections of thirteen pioneers in sustainable fashion.

By Katie Dominy / 23-01-2014

Organised as part of Green showroom, the exhibition dedicated to sustainable fashion, Dutch Eco Design catwalk show was held at the luxurious Kronprinzenpalais with Dutch Couture designer Christian Lagerwaard as guest of honour.

Lagerwaard also showed on the runway his own new collection entitled The Flow of Surface that showcased his love of feminine curvaceous silhouettes and 3D effects, all created using natural materials and classic Couture techniques. 

The thirteen design labels include Amsterdam-based Studio Jux whose ranges are all made in Nepal from sustainable fabrics. Designed by Jitske Lundgren and managed by Carlien Helmink, the designs for both men and women have a casual elegance. An interesting part of their website is called ‘Find your Tailor’ and is a mini-bio of each person in the factory in Nepal; you can look inside your garment and see by the number who has sewn it together for you. 

The Fair Trade accessories label Traced Good by created by Ester L.Wiersma also has its production in Nepal. Focusing on leather pieces such as ponchos, scarves and also bags, plus accessories such as knitted and woven cashmere scarves. Elsien Gringhuis studied at ArtEZ and presented her first collection in 2009 at Amsterdam Fashion week. Still based in Arnhem, the designer’s signature is bold colour blocks – certainly not the ‘porridge oats’ look of old-style eco fashion. Sleek cuts of delux sportswear came in tones of red, cobalt blues, greys and black, with an emphasis on contrast textures. 

Sena Ecocouture from The Hague is the brainchild of Maria de Sena Neves. Born in the Cape Verde Islands, but growing up in the Netherlands, the designer uses only organic natural fabrics such as cotton, wool, hemp, linen, silk and bamboo and if she needs synthetics, they are always made from recycled materials. All garments are produced in the Netherlands for this label of classic pieces. Having studied at the Design Academy Eindhoven, Portuguese-born Daniela Pais has refined her Elementum collection, based on the concept of zero waste, resulting in series of multifunctional pieces with minimalist cut. Using tubular knits, the designs have no seams are can be worn many ways.

Amsterdam-based Rewrap design iPhone, iPod and laptop cases designed using the ‘cradle-to- cradle principle’ of employing only reusable and renewable materials. Starting with merino wool from European sheep that is felted and dyed in bright colours using only ecological processes, the covers are then sewn using only organic cotton thread and branded with a stamp directly onto the felt. The cases are sewn together in a small workshop in Amsterdam that provides employment to people with disabilities. 

 

TWO-O was started by Rodny Heemskerk and Bob Koning in 2011 as a new accessories label focusing on products made from wood. Heemskerk studied Industrial design and between the two of them they have produced a wide rage of sleek items in different woods, such as walnut and bamboo. Wooden sunglasses, iPhone and iPad covers, business card holders are in the range and even a beautifully linked wooden watch strap. 

Also showing were designer Inti Ferreira, Mud Jeans, Oat Shoes, Myomy, Päälä and Dutch Basics. Dutch Eco Design was a sponsored project of the Embassy the Kingdom of the Netherlands in Berlin.

IMAGES

1 Dutch Eco Design catwalk

2 - Elsien Gringhuis

3 - Daniela Pais, TWO-O, Rewrap

4 - Studio Jux

5 - Traced Good

6 - Christian Lagerwaard

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