By Katie Dominy / 04-05-2010

Oversized frills, scallops and pleats give an exaggerated but geometric femininity to Sanne Jansen's new winter collection, Architecture of the Mind. We asked the designer about her inspirations.

"The collection is about construction versus femininity. I wanted to see in what ways unusual shapes and volumes could be integrated into a garment without becoming blunt (too obvious). Some shapes are strong and graphic, others are frivolous and ladylike. The collection looks clean and simple but has  some special details, like little golden ribbons, golden sashes and hand-knitted merino wool cardigans and sweats."

Structure and volume comes from tightly pleated mini skirts, cut tight as a yoke over the hips, then springing out away from the body. A black mini skirt has oversized scallop hem: a feminine detail echoed on the exaggerated peter-pan collar cut into dramatic scallops of a mini dress. In a sleeveless dress, rounded barrel-like pleats become a series of pockets around the body. Dramatic waves of frills form a deep U yoke add a soft edge to a jumpsuit, or form the deep scoop neckline on a black above the knee dress.

"The volume is created in such a way that the pieces are really wearable; the volume is designed using just the fabric, without adding special support. In that way the garments become sculptural not sculptures. So you can still ride your bicycle wearing the dress."

"I started to play around with circles to find out about the possibilities. By working with folding pieces of paper and a pair of compasses, the ideas came to life. The circle appeared to be the perfect shape to construct with. They ended up in waves of ruffles and as a pillar and millstone shaped skirts. Because of the circle's organic shape, the garments were easily implemented."

Jansen explains that the colour palette of Architecture of the Mind is "based on a beautiful sunset last summer. The sky turned purple, blue, orange, pink etc. The colours were warm with a hint of grey. These colours were combined with the colours of the night; black and dark blue." All the materials used are natural, to give a soft touch.

Jansen believes that her long-term influences come from her Dutch background. "I feel related to Holland's Calvanistic roots. It's not about the religious meaning but more about the cultural mindset. I feel connected with the feeling of less is more and the sense of modesty. These are two important piers in my designs as well. It's not about being great and compelling, but about celebrating simplicity. You can be feminine and sexy, even by covering up. In fashion, femininity is often shown by baring lots of skin and using a lot of decoration. I'd like to show the moderate version of being feminine and sexy."

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